Nigel Slater’s chicken, basil mayonnaise and summer plum pudding recipes
No holiday for me this summer. There is too much going on. (Which probably explains the forgotten sugar in the ginger beer recipe the other week C my apologies.) The recipes that are most useful to me right now are not those that I can knock up in a few minutes, but those that involve cooking one can you wash a canada goose jacket in the washer day for the next. Coming home after a hectic day in sweltering heat to “something I made earlier” has been a life saver.
The early part of this week saw me poaching a chicken in a lovely herbal stock, letting it cool coat, then feasting on it for the rest of the week. (The stock became a sustaining soup last night.) The best of these fridge raids involved hunks of leg meat C and the even juicier undercarriage C tucked into a mayonnaise made with handfuls of fresh herbs and enough buy canada goose parka cheap lemon juice to lift the spirits of both me and the cold chicken.
Chicken mayonnaise is often made from left-over roast chicken and that is fine. But better, I think, is to use a bird that has been poached in a mildly seasoned liquid. Allowed to cool in the stock, the flesh will be infinitely more moist that it would have been otherwise.
We have, I suspect, got out of the idea of cooking any sort of meat in stock on a regular basis. Slow cooking of this sort rarely fits in with our lives any more. It is only when you come to do it, on a Saturday afternoon or on a soggy Sunday morning, that you wonder why you didn’t do it before. With your bonny chicken cooked and cooled, the notion of a midweek chicken salad, late-night sandwich (with bacon, tomato and mayo) and a shallow bowl of pappardelle with chicken, olive oil and torn basil on the bright blue canada goose jacket table in nine minutes finally becomes a reality.
Basil mayo is perhaps the most appropriate for a chicken salad at this point in a long hot summer. best price for canada goose jacket Especially as my plant on the kitchen steps has reached the size of a small garden shrub. So large, in fact, that last night I scooped up some of my chicken mayo and rolled it in a basil leaf that had grown to the size of a piece of lettuce and stuffed it in my mouth, dolmades style.
The idea of “today-for-tomorrow” works with puddings, too. Give me a load of soft fruit and a loaf of bread, and I will show you a good time. Summer pudding (made in the evening so it is ready for the next day) needs little introduction, but at this stage of the year I am swapping the redcurrants for other fruit. The plum season is just about upon us, and they work splendidly in place of currants, adding much juice and an end-of-summer feel.
Chicken with dill and basil mayonnaise
Moistness is all. Cooling the chicken in its broth will help to keep it juicy and easy to carve. Serves 4-6.
a medium-sized chicken2 tomatoes2 medium onions9 black peppercorns12 parsley stalksa few sprigs of thyme1 bay leaf1 large lemon
Put the chicken in a large, deep pan. Add the tomatoes, the onions still in their skins, and the peppercorns. Tuck in the parsley stalks, the thyme and the bay leaf. Cut the lemon in half and add it to the pan. Pour over enough water to cover the chicken.
Bring to the boil, skim off the froth, then turn the heat down to a simmer. Let the chicken simmer for an hour. By that time the stock should be rich with flavour and the meat on the bird should be tender yet not falling off the bone. Check the flesh at the deepest point C if it is still pink, it needs a little longer. Remove from the heat and let the bird cool in the stock. Don’t refrigerate, but keep as cool as possible.
Lift the chicken from the stock and pull the meat off in large pieces. Cut or tear into large strips and chunks.
Basil and dill mayonnaise
3 egg yolks? tsp Dijon mustarda pinch of salt150ml groundnut oil150ml olive oil10-15g basil leaves10g dill frondsthe juice of ? a lemon1 small cucumbera few appropriate flowers or herbs to finish
Put the yolks in canada goose coat – kensington a bowl with the mustard and a pinch of salt. Whisk in a few drops of groundnut oil followed by a steady trickle of the rest, whisking constantly. Once you have used all of buy canada goose jacket usa the groundnut, move on to the olive. You should have a thick, custard-coloured mayonnaise.
Stir in the chopped basil and dill leaves, check the seasoning, then set aside for the basil to do its stuff.
Half an hour or so later stir in 2 tsp of lemon juice. This should thin the sauce down a little, so that it is a coating consistency. If it doesn’t, then add a little more.
Check the seasoning.
Peel the small cucumber and then cut it into thick, match-like strips. When finished, fold gently into the mayonnaise with the chicken.
A plum pudding for late summer